trip number 12 Skye

Thursday 27th August - Wednesday 2nd September 2009

Day one
The day started a bit earlier than is healthy - 5 am! and we set off for Skye. we decided to do it in one go to make sure we had as much time as possible on the island and despite the very long day we had a great time travelling. Stop 1 was near Carlisle in the motorway services. I don’t know what they do to coffee in places like this but they do something horrendous to it and then charge a ridiculous amount. Still it was a caffeine boost. We then carried on past Glasgow to our second stop of the day - Luss. There is a fantastic place called the coach house that we often find excuses for visiting. We first discovered it on our honeymoon ten years ago and have returned many times. They serve the most fantastic range of homemade soups and cakes (and the man in a kilt is a free but enjoyable extra!). The final leg of our journey was the most stunning heading north to Fortwilliam and then along the A87 to Kyle of Lochalsh. We had never gone this section past Fortwilliam before and the scenery was absolutely stunning. Scotland has a special place in my heart and even a lot of rain can’t dampen the excitement of seeing the hills. Finally after driving across what was once the most expensive piece of toll road in the world, we entered Skye and headed past Portree to our campsite just outside Flashader. WOW sums up the view from the campsite across Loch Greshornish. It was definitely worth the 12 hour journey. We pitched up and after a cuppa went to bed - rocked to sleep by the gale force winds and rain!!
Day two
The weather overnight had us a bit worried that our holiday might literally be a wash out. Even the trailer tent couple that arrived today parked up and went off not returning for two days! We woke up this morning to wonderful views of the Loch, as well as a man in his 70‘s doing is weights ands a little girl telling the entire campsite that her brother had stolen the kettle - priceless. despite bad weather overnight we had blue skies today and so set off to explore the Trotternish peninsula. We went through Uig and up to Kilmuir and the Skye museum of Island life. A fascinating little museum telling the story of the island and its people. We also discovered a local hero called Flora McDonald who had helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape and had a lovely walk up to her grave and the celtic cross monument erected in her memory. We then carried on around the coast and stopped at Ellishader to take a look at Kilt Rock waterfall and indulge in some roadside cooked sausage sandwiches. We set off again and admired the Old Man of Storr ( a rock not an actual man!) and finally arrived in Portree were we took the road back to the campsite. As was to be expected at teatime the weather hit again so we were moved of our grass pitch onto a gravel pitch and enjoyed another night being rocked to sleep.
Day three
Sunshine again today - hooray. This time we decided to explore the Waternish peninsula so again set off in the camper for a drive around. We drove past the famous fairy bridge (legend has it that a prince foolishly married a fairy and said farewell to her at the bridge when she decided to go back to her mother) and our first stop of the day was a pretty little lochside village called Stein. We walked down the Quay so Matt could take some photos and then sheltered in the Stein Inn for lunch (with its rather dodgy playlist of Barry Mannilow and Abba). We then headed up the road to SkyeSkyns, a traditional tannery. We were given a fantastic free tour of the work they do and then had a look at the shop. We even bought a fantastic rug as a reminder. After that we headed further down the peninsula to Shilasdair yarns where we were shown the natural dyeing processes they use. We didn’t buy an knitwear though as we would definitely have to remortgage! Our final stop of the day was in the most uninspiring of villages - Dunvegan. There is noting really attractive about it at all, its only saving grace is a lovely little cake shop called Jann’s cakes where we had a nice coffee and a giant butterscotch and ginger syrup muffin topped with chocolate and a piece of fudge. Shame we only thought about taking a photo after we’d scoffed the lot. Tonight the weather was much calmer and drier and we even managed a walk along the loch from the campsite and had much more sleep!
Day four
Today was the day I had been waiting for - the trip to Talisker distillery. We had a lovely drive past Dunvegan to Carbost and then very much enjoyed a wee dram before going on the distillery tour. What was surprising was the amount of whisky left by people!! scandalous I say. After the tour I purchased a rather fine new edition to the Talisker range - 57º North - it’s 57% and a magnificently flavoured malt. After the tour we headed up past Carbost to Portnalong and enjoyed even more stunning scenery. It’s amazing how the ever changing weather makes the scenery come alive. The view of the Cuillins changed all the time and was fascinating just to sit and watch. We settled down in the evening to a yummy mushroom risotto and a glass of vino as the weather properly descended on the Loch. Another night of being rocked asleep and grateful for our camper as some of tents collapsed overnight.
Day five
Today was the first day that it rained properly during the day and boy did it rain. We ventured into Portree for a look around and stumbled across a lovely little cafe called Cafe Arriba. A fantastic little place with lots of homemade lunches. Matt had a fantastic lamb curry and I had the nicest falafel wraps I’ve ever had. I’d definitely recommend popping in if you are on Skye. We had a look around the harbour and the multicoloured restaurants and guesthouses before seeking refuge back in the van. We’d got so wet we had to strategically place plastic bags in the van to catch the water running off our coats and trousers! We decided to venture back towards Uig and visit the Isle of Skye Brewery, and this was the only disappointment we had on Skye. It was baffling enough to find a brewery that wasn’t doing tours during the summer season (apparently not enough staff) but then we tried to buy some of their ale discovered they had run out!!! and their shop only sold other ales from elsewhere in Scotland. To get over the shock we had a a lovely look around Uig Pottery and had a great coffee in their cafe before heading back to the campsite for a lazy afternoon.
Day six (and seven)
Today we said goodbye to Skye and headed south to Ardgartan for a stopover. we stopped off at Eilean Donan Castle for a photo opportunity and a nice bowl of soup (plus another rather nice man in a kilt). We then continued to loch Long (including a minor argument with a left hand drive camper along the way). Ardgartan site was a welcome rest from travelling but sad to see that the site is a bit run down as its lease is nearly up. A shame as it's in a great spot. We then had an early night and set off home the next day (with the usual stop off at Luss for soup and millionaires shortbread!)

Details for those who are interested!

Cost: £19.47 per night with electric hook up and awning (high season)
Website: http://www.siteseeker.co.uk/aspx/details.aspx?id=9060&currentPage=0

Coach House, Luss: http://www.taste-of-scotland.com/members/coach_house.html
Skye Museum of Island Life: http://www.skyemuseum.co.uk/index.html
Skyeskyns: http://www.skyeskyns.co.uk/

Shilasdair Yarns: http://www.shilasdair-yarns.co.uk/
Stein Inn:http://www.steininn.co.uk/
Jann's Cakes:http://www.theskyeguide.com/shopping-mainmenu-30/28-locally-made-stuff/185-janns-cakes
Talisker Distillery :http://www.discovering-distilleries.com/talisker
Cafe Arriba :http://www.cafearriba.co.uk/
Uig Pottery :http://www.uigpottery.co.uk/